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Sex Wax!!!!
- Thread starter Lurch
- Start date
Kuu wax has always treated me right! Just do do the "rub on" stuff, I've always found that it makes the board stick on colder days. It takes a little more work, but the wax and iron technique is my favorite!
It also helps to put a coat on at the end of the season, then scrape it off at the start of a new one, this way your base doesn't dry out in the summer!
It also helps to put a coat on at the end of the season, then scrape it off at the start of a new one, this way your base doesn't dry out in the summer!
ninja
TRIBE Member
For snowboarding, go for some One ball Jay its produced by the libtech/gnu/mervin mfg people. its such good stuff.
Sex wax makes wax from snowboards as well which is decent it says rub on but drip it and it will last longer.
Rub on stuff is ok for one or two runs but generally wears off also if you said you neglected your base last season then it will be really dry, first check for base shrinkage around where the edges end on the nose and tail ( or if a continuous edge just above the contact point w/ snow is the most common place it the base has come away from the edge at all ( even the smallest bit) the get it fixed then do a normal way job, clean base ( lemon juice & vinegar works well) , textureize base depending on consitions then wax wwth an iron! your base needs a good deep wax job to get it back to normal.
hope this helps
peace
Mike
Sex wax makes wax from snowboards as well which is decent it says rub on but drip it and it will last longer.
Rub on stuff is ok for one or two runs but generally wears off also if you said you neglected your base last season then it will be really dry, first check for base shrinkage around where the edges end on the nose and tail ( or if a continuous edge just above the contact point w/ snow is the most common place it the base has come away from the edge at all ( even the smallest bit) the get it fixed then do a normal way job, clean base ( lemon juice & vinegar works well) , textureize base depending on consitions then wax wwth an iron! your base needs a good deep wax job to get it back to normal.
hope this helps
peace
Mike
I could write pages on waxing technique. I used to (ski) race for Atomic Canada, ran my own tuning business for 3 yrs, and have been on snow for the past 18yrs of my life.
As a recreational enthusist, you don't need to worry about expensive wax. The most important thing to remember is that your base is like a sponge. The more you wax it, the more wax your board will soak up. I don't mean applying massive amounts of wax at one time. I'm refering to frequency of waxing.
Getting back on track, Kuu, Swix, Briko, etc... will all tell you their products are the best. This doesn't matter for most people. If you ask at a decent shop if they have any "shop wax" for sale this is the best way to go. Basically it's really big pieces (gold bar sized) of wax. You should be able to get it for $10-20 a bar(note one bar will last all season even if you wax everyday).
Typically bars come in 4 colours depending on type of wax.
Yellow Wax is the softest and best for warmer conditions (1 to -5)
Red Wax is medium temperature range, and will be your best bet if only choosing one wax. (-3 to -13)
Green or Blue Wax is the hardest and for temperatures below -13
*note, teperature ranges are approximated, but again, for weekend conventional use this guide will do.
Getting back to your question, if you left your board for the summer without wax coating the base you'll probably notice it looks dry and white(think of it like dry skin). Take an iron(with no holes in it!!!!) and drip wax all over it and spread around with the iron.
While still hot, scrape the wax off. This will help remove the dirt from your base. Repeat as necessary (scrapings shouldn't be too dark anymore).
Every other time, let the wax cool (wait at least half hour) before scraping. The more frequently you wax your board the better as the base will become permiated with wax.
Smile suggested brushing the bass with a "wire brush" when you're finished the process. Great suggestion. Kuu sells brass brushes or nylon. Brush from tip to tail of base. The warmer the snow the more of an angle you should apply.
How/why this works: When your base travels over snow, the friction causes the snow to break down into water molecules. The warmer the snow the earlier it turns into water. Brushing prevents that suction you get when you set a glass on a table of water. This is also why wax ment for warmer temperature is softer, cold snow has less moisture and thus is harder on your base, so a harder wax protects your base.
I realize this post is a lot longer than I ment it to be, if anybody has any questions about tuning, just send a PM and I'll gladly reply.
Peace Ira
As a recreational enthusist, you don't need to worry about expensive wax. The most important thing to remember is that your base is like a sponge. The more you wax it, the more wax your board will soak up. I don't mean applying massive amounts of wax at one time. I'm refering to frequency of waxing.
Getting back on track, Kuu, Swix, Briko, etc... will all tell you their products are the best. This doesn't matter for most people. If you ask at a decent shop if they have any "shop wax" for sale this is the best way to go. Basically it's really big pieces (gold bar sized) of wax. You should be able to get it for $10-20 a bar(note one bar will last all season even if you wax everyday).
Typically bars come in 4 colours depending on type of wax.
Yellow Wax is the softest and best for warmer conditions (1 to -5)
Red Wax is medium temperature range, and will be your best bet if only choosing one wax. (-3 to -13)
Green or Blue Wax is the hardest and for temperatures below -13
*note, teperature ranges are approximated, but again, for weekend conventional use this guide will do.
Getting back to your question, if you left your board for the summer without wax coating the base you'll probably notice it looks dry and white(think of it like dry skin). Take an iron(with no holes in it!!!!) and drip wax all over it and spread around with the iron.
While still hot, scrape the wax off. This will help remove the dirt from your base. Repeat as necessary (scrapings shouldn't be too dark anymore).
Every other time, let the wax cool (wait at least half hour) before scraping. The more frequently you wax your board the better as the base will become permiated with wax.
Smile suggested brushing the bass with a "wire brush" when you're finished the process. Great suggestion. Kuu sells brass brushes or nylon. Brush from tip to tail of base. The warmer the snow the more of an angle you should apply.
How/why this works: When your base travels over snow, the friction causes the snow to break down into water molecules. The warmer the snow the earlier it turns into water. Brushing prevents that suction you get when you set a glass on a table of water. This is also why wax ment for warmer temperature is softer, cold snow has less moisture and thus is harder on your base, so a harder wax protects your base.
I realize this post is a lot longer than I ment it to be, if anybody has any questions about tuning, just send a PM and I'll gladly reply.
Peace Ira
The Tesseract
TRIBE Member
Surfing has Sex Wax
Snowboarding has Kuu Big Bertha
Besure to use all of it, except the tits.
Snowboarding has Kuu Big Bertha
Besure to use all of it, except the tits.