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Pimp Your Ride: The officious car thread for gear heads
- Thread starter Dr. Grinch
- Start date
HybridTheory
TRIBE Member
The block is from an Integra LS ( Non Vtec ) and the head is from an Integra GSR ( Vtec )
OK, so my econobox needs some overdue scheduled maintenance. It pisses me off to no end that I no longer have the luxury of a garage to keep the car/parts safe overnight for larger jobs (or, say an engine hoist) and that I have to pay someone $100 an hour to do something which I would enjoy doing myself. But, them’s the breaks. What needs to happen fairly soon is a clutch job and to replace the timing belt- I was planning on taking a couple of hours to do the struts a pair at a time sometime over the summer. So, my questions:
- Where do you source your parts from? I used to order OEM parts, but I’m leaning towards the significant cost savings of some aftermarket parts. Anyone try autopartsway.com?
- I know this has been briefly touched upon in a couple of threads, but can anyone recommend a mechanic who will do the job properly at a fair price? I’ve shopped around for a bit and I’m getting quotes as high as $1000 to replace the belt and pump on a six-year old Mazda (including parts). Preferably someone who will work with the parts I bring in.
- On a timing belt job, would you automatically replace the tensioner/idler? Even if they show little wear? Man, those fuckers are expensive.
Thanks!
- Where do you source your parts from? I used to order OEM parts, but I’m leaning towards the significant cost savings of some aftermarket parts. Anyone try autopartsway.com?
- I know this has been briefly touched upon in a couple of threads, but can anyone recommend a mechanic who will do the job properly at a fair price? I’ve shopped around for a bit and I’m getting quotes as high as $1000 to replace the belt and pump on a six-year old Mazda (including parts). Preferably someone who will work with the parts I bring in.
- On a timing belt job, would you automatically replace the tensioner/idler? Even if they show little wear? Man, those fuckers are expensive.
Thanks!
the_fornicator
TRIBE Member
Get the Hane's manual mate. Nobody will be able to answer your question without know the actual model.
You might not even have a timing belt, but rather a timing chain. In which case, you won't even have a tensioner. Even then, some cars have a timing belt, but no tensioner.
$1000 for the timing belt/water pump/crank seals/cam seals/etc., etc., is okay. I've seen some people drop $1500 on that job.
You can call around to car customizing places and they can usually order parts in for you, but then you'd have to find a mechanic that would do it for you.
I called Honda and they said that they'd charge in the neighborhood of $800 to $900 to do my timing belt, but their prices for parts were retarded. I called around to the rice shops around town and was able to get the parts for 30-40% less, however, Honda won't guarantee their work if it's not their parts -and in which case, they outright refused to put it in the car for you.
I'm sure if I found another mechanic to do it, it wouldn't be a problem.
Ask some friends to borrow their garage for a bit. It'd be pretty cheap to get that all done at once cause since they have to take out the engine to get to them cam/crank seals, the clutch is easy to get to so it'd be cheaper than doing both at two different times.
To answer your question: It would be best to replace your tensioner (if you had one) cause since you're already in there, you might as well do it. Just like the water pump. If the water pump went and you just paid to replace the timing belt, you'd have to dismantle the exact same parts to access the pump. Plus, the life expectancies are roughly the same. That's why you're supposed to hit everything at once. Spending the extra $300 on parts can save you thousands in labour.
You might not even have a timing belt, but rather a timing chain. In which case, you won't even have a tensioner. Even then, some cars have a timing belt, but no tensioner.
$1000 for the timing belt/water pump/crank seals/cam seals/etc., etc., is okay. I've seen some people drop $1500 on that job.
You can call around to car customizing places and they can usually order parts in for you, but then you'd have to find a mechanic that would do it for you.
I called Honda and they said that they'd charge in the neighborhood of $800 to $900 to do my timing belt, but their prices for parts were retarded. I called around to the rice shops around town and was able to get the parts for 30-40% less, however, Honda won't guarantee their work if it's not their parts -and in which case, they outright refused to put it in the car for you.
I'm sure if I found another mechanic to do it, it wouldn't be a problem.
Ask some friends to borrow their garage for a bit. It'd be pretty cheap to get that all done at once cause since they have to take out the engine to get to them cam/crank seals, the clutch is easy to get to so it'd be cheaper than doing both at two different times.
To answer your question: It would be best to replace your tensioner (if you had one) cause since you're already in there, you might as well do it. Just like the water pump. If the water pump went and you just paid to replace the timing belt, you'd have to dismantle the exact same parts to access the pump. Plus, the life expectancies are roughly the same. That's why you're supposed to hit everything at once. Spending the extra $300 on parts can save you thousands in labour.
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Question for gearheads about brakes.
VW says I need new brake pads in the back - I've called around and it's surprising the price to do the job is pretty much the same between dealer AND private mechanic (or, am I calling the wrong places?)
My question is : I need to do the brakes and the vw guy said I don't need to do the rotors, but I've called other dealers who said they would do both at the same time -
Dealer: $330+tax
Local guy: $300 +tax
Do I go with a dealership (it's a lease) or with the local guy, hoping I don't get fleeced?
Or does someone have a solid, reliable and trusting vw mechanic they can suggest?
VW says I need new brake pads in the back - I've called around and it's surprising the price to do the job is pretty much the same between dealer AND private mechanic (or, am I calling the wrong places?)
My question is : I need to do the brakes and the vw guy said I don't need to do the rotors, but I've called other dealers who said they would do both at the same time -
Dealer: $330+tax
Local guy: $300 +tax
Do I go with a dealership (it's a lease) or with the local guy, hoping I don't get fleeced?
Or does someone have a solid, reliable and trusting vw mechanic they can suggest?
Do you feel the brakes shuddering when stopping? That could be a sign of warped rotors which means they should be replaced.
How bad are your pads now? Is there noise coming from them when braking?
Depending on the year/mileage of the vehicle it may be a sounder decision to do the rotors but that's more work for the mechanic($$).
$300 seems a bit steep to change pads but I recently got a similar quote from my mechanic.
If you have the slightest bit of mechanical knowledge and the ability to follow instructions, I suggest buying a Haynes manual and doing the brakes yourself. It's not that hard and you'll save $150 or so. It shouldn't take you more than an Hour and a half.
How bad are your pads now? Is there noise coming from them when braking?
Depending on the year/mileage of the vehicle it may be a sounder decision to do the rotors but that's more work for the mechanic($$).
$300 seems a bit steep to change pads but I recently got a similar quote from my mechanic.
If you have the slightest bit of mechanical knowledge and the ability to follow instructions, I suggest buying a Haynes manual and doing the brakes yourself. It's not that hard and you'll save $150 or so. It shouldn't take you more than an Hour and a half.
$300 for just pads is a little ridiculous for most VW’s. Unless you’re using some choice pads/have some crazy brake rig in your car, labour should only be at-most an hour and pads about $100 or so. You could probably get a mechanic to do a decent job for about $100-150. Rotors, if they can’t be machined, should cost about $50-$100 each plus labour. If you get a good and decent-value mechanic, the whole job can be done (pads, rotors, bleeding) in less than an hour and around $200-$250. $300-$350 is fair (especially for a dealership) for both the pads and NEW rotors
When you push the calipers back and you get fluid through the escape valve, don't you have to make sure the brakes are bled afterwards?
Please say yes- otherwise I've wasted a lot of time placing buckets and carting off the fluid to the waste disposal...although, I could have sworn that each time the brake fluid sputtered when bleading
Please say yes- otherwise I've wasted a lot of time placing buckets and carting off the fluid to the waste disposal...although, I could have sworn that each time the brake fluid sputtered when bleading
I'm loving the sarcasm in your post.
I have never bled brakes after a basic service, only when a line has been disconnected.
I've been doing basic pad/rotor swaps for over 15 years and have thankfully never had a problem. Even through the 500,000+ kms that my mum put her truck through from hauling a gooseneck horsetrailer all over N.A, and the 230,000 she's put on her dually hauling the trailer she's been problem free. I've also worked at a few shops and it was never done.
I have never bled brakes after a basic service, only when a line has been disconnected.
I've been doing basic pad/rotor swaps for over 15 years and have thankfully never had a problem. Even through the 500,000+ kms that my mum put her truck through from hauling a gooseneck horsetrailer all over N.A, and the 230,000 she's put on her dually hauling the trailer she's been problem free. I've also worked at a few shops and it was never done.
Yup, A4.
Since I now have experience removing the bumper, the next mod I'd like to look into are clear corners to have my lights look similar to this:
So far most of the upgrades I have done to the car have been stereo related such as Dension iPod/iPhone integration that allows me to control playlists and tracks through the steering wheel controls, amp, subs. The car came with premium sound and the bose speakers sound pretty good so I didn't bother modding those. My road map on mods hit a few snags in that I had to replace the windshield because of a massive rock hitting me on the highway, and somebody hitting me in a parking lot and taking off requiring me to shell out cash on repairs rather than cosmetic upgrades.
Once the warranty is out, I'm gonna look into a chip, and lowered suspension. The factory 17" rims are kinda nice as is, I'd like to see the cars stance when lowered before I decide on replacing those.
Since I now have experience removing the bumper, the next mod I'd like to look into are clear corners to have my lights look similar to this:
So far most of the upgrades I have done to the car have been stereo related such as Dension iPod/iPhone integration that allows me to control playlists and tracks through the steering wheel controls, amp, subs. The car came with premium sound and the bose speakers sound pretty good so I didn't bother modding those. My road map on mods hit a few snags in that I had to replace the windshield because of a massive rock hitting me on the highway, and somebody hitting me in a parking lot and taking off requiring me to shell out cash on repairs rather than cosmetic upgrades.
Once the warranty is out, I'm gonna look into a chip, and lowered suspension. The factory 17" rims are kinda nice as is, I'd like to see the cars stance when lowered before I decide on replacing those.
rswbrixton
TRIBE Member
Just whoring through...
on the eigth day , god created this
Fillmore
TRIBE Member
Took my 04 Mazda 6GT in for some service last week and while waiting for it the sales rep asked if I would be interested in taking out the 2010 Mazda 6 while I wait.
Fuck me this car has balls for a Mazda. If I recall correctly its a 3.7L V6 putting out around 276hp. I thought my 3.0L v6 was fast until I got into that.
His ploy worked, the fiance fell in love and now were thinking of crunching some numbers to see if a new car is feasible. I know for 40,000 (I would want the GT with nav screen model) I could get tons of other great cars but this has me sold.
Fuck me this car has balls for a Mazda. If I recall correctly its a 3.7L V6 putting out around 276hp. I thought my 3.0L v6 was fast until I got into that.
His ploy worked, the fiance fell in love and now were thinking of crunching some numbers to see if a new car is feasible. I know for 40,000 (I would want the GT with nav screen model) I could get tons of other great cars but this has me sold.
Dr. Grinch
TRIBE Member
Picked up a new ride. 2005 Passat Wagon GLS
1.8T, Manual, Black on tan leather
It's factory condition right now, but I'm thinking about something along these lines when I'm done with it
1.8T, Manual, Black on tan leather
It's factory condition right now, but I'm thinking about something along these lines when I'm done with it
rswbrixton
TRIBE Member
Picked up a new ride. 2005 Passat Wagon GLS
1.8T, Manual, Black on tan leather
It's factory condition right now, but I'm thinking about something along these lines when I'm done with it
you buy it - turn it into that and i will buy from you - i love it !
sweetdaddy
TRIBE Member
at work, we're building a 55 chevy from the ground up.
chassis and first components arrived last friday... it's a winter project (for when the shop is slow). should be allot of fun.
chassis and first components arrived last friday... it's a winter project (for when the shop is slow). should be allot of fun.
I love that passat wagon. I drive an 08 and must say the lines on it are pretty nice, stock. Would love to turn it into a superwagon but first I have to complain about the seats! UGH! TERRIBLE!!! The worst seats I've ever sat in.
It's a lease, and I haven't decided if I'm going to buy it outright at the end, so no mods for me now. But I know with a bit of coin I could turn it inside out and have a great wagon (I love wagons, fell in love when the T5-R wagon came out).
But ballz' bm makes me sweat. I know wht you mean when you say you are giddy- when I drove my bro's 335i for a week here and there, I'd get the same exact feeling. ALWAYS. My mom just picked up a 535xdrive and it's phenomenal as well, but nothing like the 3 in my opinion.
I LOVE THAT WAGON!! Too low to be practical, but that year/generation body shape is sweet.
It's a lease, and I haven't decided if I'm going to buy it outright at the end, so no mods for me now. But I know with a bit of coin I could turn it inside out and have a great wagon (I love wagons, fell in love when the T5-R wagon came out).
But ballz' bm makes me sweat. I know wht you mean when you say you are giddy- when I drove my bro's 335i for a week here and there, I'd get the same exact feeling. ALWAYS. My mom just picked up a 535xdrive and it's phenomenal as well, but nothing like the 3 in my opinion.
I LOVE THAT WAGON!! Too low to be practical, but that year/generation body shape is sweet.