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Pimp Your Ride: The officious car thread for gear heads

deep

TRIBE Member
I have read many forums which confirm its a very bad idea to put any money down on a lease. However, my wife and I decided to go ahead and do it. We had the cash a time of delivery and decided to throw it down to make out month to month easier. Knowing us, we would have blown that money on something stupid so we figured throw it down on the car. Like you said, when you do the math, they get that same amount of money anyway.
The argument I kept coming across was if you write off the car you loose that down payment so I guess its a risk.


Re losing money down if the car is totalled or stolen -

Depends on the insurance policy, specifically how the waiver of depreciation works. In my case I'm covered for the full MSRP / purchase price, regardless of whatever was done after that point re: capital cost reduction (what a down payment is on a lease).

That settled the matter for me and was the only reservation I had after running projections on the numbers. If the car is written off in the first two years I get back the purchase price of the vehicle, no reductions from depreciation or whatever was done on financing. Confirmed it a few times to be sure because I couldn't believe it as it went contrary to the typical comments on forums. Put another way, even if I paid off the whole vehicle immediately afterwards in cash, the insured amount is the original purchase price. You buy insurance on the vehicle and not on what payments you make. Put another way, when you total / get your car stolen and you're paying interest on your car payments, the insurance company doesn't compensate you for the interest you paid over the price of the vehicle.

Honestly doing the math and projections they get their money one way or another - either up front or over time in the payments. So my conclusion was it just boils down to whatever you prefer - put it another way would the car companies opt for some financing or leasing mechanism that would provide a massive discount relative to their other options? There isn't going to be some secret "free" plan.

I think people just say that on forums because they haven't actually run the numbers.
 
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Fillmore

TRIBE Member
That is exactly what I was trying to get across on one of the forums but you have made better sense than I did. We have the same insurance coverage as yourself. (full MSRP if written off or stolen)

Ahh peace of mind now. haha. Thanks Deep!
 

the_fornicator

TRIBE Member
So, that was weird. Since the first time I engaged 4wd in the 4Runner, there was a noticeable vibration between 40-60 kmph. By the time I hit 80-90 kmph, the vibration would be so loud, you wouldn't be able to have a conversation with the person riding shotgun.

So, I never took the thing above 50-60 kmph in 4WD. Over time, the vibration got a little better (after sitting for essentially 5 years, you gotta drive some of the gremlins out) but it still vibrated. After some research, I guess the u-joint in the front drive shaft is usually the culprit. Relatively easy fix but instead of fucking around with yolks, snap rings, vices, u-joints, etc., I just sourced a used drive shaft in good working condition (less than 100K kms).

Couple weeks ago, after some extensive research on replacing front drive shafts, I crawled under the 4Runner not really knowing wtf I was doing other than knowing that I'm a Youtube Superhero. I marked all the spots along the drive shaft to know how things are supposed to line up when installing the replacement drive shaft, removed the front nuts and bolts, and, boom, front end of the front drive shaft dropped and rested on some sort of brace. Half way done and I'm only 10 minutes in. Looking good.

Next up: rear end of the front drive shaft. This part was a PITA if you didn't do this before. I could NOT reach the four bolts in the rear and didn't quite figure it out until after about an hour or two of dog fucking. Eventually, I got the NUTS off the bolts with a lot of swearing. So, the back end front drive shaft is still attached to the transfer case flange. The nuts are off the rear end but the bolts are still there. None of the bolts don't seem to budge so I think the drive shaft needs to slide forward in order to remove it. Nope, not budging. Something is seized and I don't know whether the bolts are actually studs or bolts. If I hammer the shit out of the bolts/studs, will I ruin something?

From there, tapping the bolts/studs with a hammer results in nothing; a nice shot of heat from a propane torch and nothing; penetrating oil overnight and nothing; more hammering? Nothing.

So, at this point, I'm fed up because I've easily spent 5 hours over the course of two days with something that should have taken 60 minutes for a first-timer. I think I'm doing something wrong. I don't want to break anything in the drive line so I bolt everything back up so I can at least drive the 4Runner (another snow warning was in effect so it'd be nice to drive the beast instead of the subaru).

Funniest part? After I bolted everything up, there is absolutely ZERO vibration while in 4WD (4H) at any speed. Going 110 kmph and there's not even a hum.

So, like, wtf? lol at least I have a spare front drive shaft should I need it.
 

Vise

TRIBE Member
If the car is written off in the first two years I get back the purchase price of the vehicle, no reductions from depreciation or whatever was done on financing.

Yep, this is pretty standard on insurance policies for new cars in Ontario as far as I can tell. I didn't specify it on my policy but I was paying for it, covers the first 24 months from new as mentioned.

On the positive benefits I personally took advantage of this when my M3 was written off... suffice to say there was a significant (positive) difference between what I owed on the car and the purchase price. I essentially ended up driving a new M3 for over 20 months for $0... when I cashed out/paid off the car I used a small bit as the downpayment on my current car and stashed the rest.

2 years later and the rest of the M3 payout money (plus growth/interest) is a major piece of the the downpayment on the new car... at the time my wife said 'hey you should write off your car every year!'. :D

So yeah, writing off a new car is really not a bad thing assuming you have decent insurance and you're within 24 months of it being new. I can't imagine having the same thing happen during month 25 though...
 

Fillmore

TRIBE Member
I completely geeked out and bought my first diecast car. I had to...it is a diecast car of what I own.

15694d1421870669-cla45-amg-edition-1-owners-thread-cladiecast.jpg
 
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juice

TRIBE Member
Speaking of insurance ... and as you can imagine I am reluctant to ask my insurance company about this but how does tracking a car impact anything? These wouldn't be full on race days but rather track days, I have a few things booked for me and the C2S in the spring / summer.
 

the_fornicator

TRIBE Member
As far as I know, my insurance policy doesn't touch anything track related. I know you can get insurance specifically for the track, but as far as most run-of-the-mill, daily-driving insurance policies go, they don't care if you track you car. I think that's what you're asking.

They do care, however, if you get in an accident at the track and try to claim it with them -my policy won't get any vehicle I take to the track. If you try to claim it, they'll probably say no.

I know some insurance companies will send employees to the track and take pictures of license plates presumably to find out if you're insured with them and keep it for reference. I've seen it happen at the track a couple of times. I can only guess that they were insurance people because they just looked sneaky (taking pictures of the plates, entire bikes, carrying around a note pad, etc) -I never spoke to them, though, but a few other people around the track confirmed/agreed.

I know of a couple of people who tried to make claims with their insurance company after totaling their bikes at the track saying it happened on the street. I think the genius people said the accident happened on the same day as the track day. The insurance company called the track, verified their registration + attendance, spoke to a few other people, and bam, caught with a bold-face lie. Not sure how insurance deals with that.
 

the_fornicator

TRIBE Member
lol so, I misdiagnosed something and bought a brand new OEM fuel pump for the 4Runner. Those things aren't exactly cheap. $350 + tax. Just thankful I have a racing buddy that works at a dealership and got me their cost ($220+tax).

It's so small. Why is it so expensive? lol

I could return it, but, it's always good to have a spare fuel pump kicking around. The thing's pretty old so you never know.
 

Vise

TRIBE Member
I have a few things booked for me and the C2S in the spring / summer.

What events are you planning to hit and with what groups? I have a friend that organizes a few days (Mosport, Calabogie, etc) and at minimum I'm going to hit Mosport DDT in mid-May. We should maybe work out something amongst us car guys here?

Also my car is on a boat... should be at the dealer Feb. 9th or so and pickup shortly after. :D
 
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coleridge

TRIBE Member
Miata is a blast in the snow.

I drove a Miata for 10 years. It was always garaged in the winter though. But considering you could get sideways with ease on wet pavement, yes it would have been a blast in the snow. But honestly not a car I'd want to be daily driving in the winter.
 

I_bRAD

TRIBE Member
I had a hard top and snow tires and it was pretty decent as a daily driver. The lack of dome light was really the only issue. No rear defog either, but I think the newer ones have that. Either way, the car is small enough that the front dash vents work pretty well for rear defog.
 
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octo

TRIBE Member
finally got a new downpipe for my ride. sounds perfect and it's definitely breathing better.

i'm now wasting way more gas cause i'm driving like a hooligan and constantly keeping the engine on the boil

downpipe_zpshzkprvzy.jpg


CTS Turbo MK5/A3 TSI 2.0T Downpipe

here's a comparison of an after market downpipe vs a stock VW downpipe.

35-vi.jpg


as you can see, the aftermarket eliminates the pre-cat which significantly improves flow. my pipe is also .5" wider than stock. and the CAT is high flow, vs the more restrictive stock CAT.

i'm pretty happy :D
 

I_bRAD

TRIBE Member
Purdy! I like how they added the environment disclaimer in there! I've got 5 bucks that says a good chunk of the stock downpipe design was to meet environmental regs!
I assume you put new O2 sensors in while you had it apart?

Has anyone tried the rally armor mudflaps? Are they worth the 200 bones?
 
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juice

TRIBE Member
I did a Porsche driver development track day on Friday at Mosport and it was amazing. Great course that they run there, super fun track (was my first time on it), instructors were really helpful and my times kept getting better and better throughout the day. Taking turn 2 blind at high rates of speed is some scary shit and on the long back stretch got it up to 240kph.
 

Vise

TRIBE Member
I did a Porsche driver development track day on Friday at Mosport and it was amazing. Great course that they run there, super fun track (was my first time on it), instructors were really helpful and my times kept getting better and better throughout the day. Taking turn 2 blind at high rates of speed is some scary shit and on the long back stretch got it up to 240kph.

Nice one! Assume that was the Downtown Porsche day on July 3rd... I considered that briefly but the timing didn't work out. If you're up for another one Pfaff has days coming up on the big track in late July as well as August + September. I'm up there at the DDT in July 18th with a private group and the Pfaff day on July 27th. Should be good times.
 

juice

TRIBE Member
Nice one! Assume that was the Downtown Porsche day on July 3rd... I considered that briefly but the timing didn't work out. If you're up for another one Pfaff has days coming up on the big track in late July as well as August + September. I'm up there at the DDT in July 18th with a private group and the Pfaff day on July 27th. Should be good times.
Yeah it was with Downtown and it was on the big track. I'm gone end of July and a good bit of August, but I think I would want to do something different next time anyhow. I might look into something at Tremblant next or Watkins Glen. Sounds like you'll have a great time!
 

octo

TRIBE Member
Purdy! I like how they added the environment disclaimer in there! I've got 5 bucks that says a good chunk of the stock downpipe design was to meet environmental regs!
I assume you put new O2 sensors in while you had it apart?

Volkswagen/Audi doesn't care about environmental regs anyway

This VW Diesel Scandal Is Much Worse Than a Recall

They're going to get bent over for this. Already lost $20 billion in share value.

Pretty sneaky trick on their part. It was shocking how much better real world fuel economy was compared to EPA testing. It was kind of a given that VW would under rate their engines, but this scandal is :eek:
 

the_fornicator

TRIBE Member
Man, that 4Runner has been interesting the last bit to say the least. I sourced a used transmission and I got this g52 transmission which is supposed to be a straight swap with my w56. BUT, I was a dummy and didn't take the g52 transfer case when I pulled the transmission. And the t-case that's currently mated with the w56 isn't compatible.

So, that was a wasted $800 venture with my mechanic. I'm still rocking a transmission with a bunk 2nd gear synchro. Makes me a better driver though haha double clutching, rev matching, etc.

Also discovered that I'm a pretty shitty mechanic. I had to replace the front and rear main seal because I installed them incorrectly the first time around so my vehicle started leaking oil. I was so tired of working my ass off with the engine that I paid someone to do it this time to the tune of $1500. I also had them replace the head gasket too while they had the engine out. Just in case.

I didn't know a lot about body work back in the day so the quarter panels weren't prepped properly my friends and I welded the new ones in (didn't seal the seams or nothing). So, rush is showing again. Going to drive it as-is and get the both rear quarters replaced, I'll also replace both rocker panels as the pinch welds were rusting from the get go, and since I'm dumping all this fucking money into it, I figure I'll either for for a Lexus v8 swap or a 1 or 2jz swap.
 
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