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Home Beautification and Home Renovation
- Thread starter JESuX
- Start date
we began demolition on our basement over the weekend, only to find slightly mouldy drywall behind the wood panelling on the exterior walls.
now to figure out how to fix it.
then to figure out if we want to lower the basement, or move the ducts.
good times! pics to come.
now to figure out how to fix it.
then to figure out if we want to lower the basement, or move the ducts.
good times! pics to come.
Musical Rush
TRIBE Member
Anybody looking for Mike Holmes, his crew are working 12 doors down from me.
Musical Rush
TRIBE Member
Replace it with the blue dry wall, it's water and mold resistant. If you use the green drywall only the paper is water and mold resistant. The white drywall really isn't for basements because of the moisture down there. If it gets wet your pretty much fucked.
you can do different things with ductwork, just depends on how much work and money you want to put into it. might be less than lowering the basement!
there's about a foot off the ground worth of moisture in the deepest corner. right now, we're waiting for a trailer to get rid of the debris, and then we're going to take more drywall and insulation off and check it out further. keep your fingers crossed for us!
there's about a foot off the ground worth of moisture in the deepest corner. right now, we're waiting for a trailer to get rid of the debris, and then we're going to take more drywall and insulation off and check it out further. keep your fingers crossed for us!
fingers crossed for you two for sure!!! i hope that's the only spot and that you can completely rid yourselves of it. did they find any moisture in teh inspection?
if the ductwork just has to be raised and go in the same direction, it shouldn't be too much work, will definitely be cheaper then lowering your basement. i think lowering the basement is pretty expensive.
if the ductwork just has to be raised and go in the same direction, it shouldn't be too much work, will definitely be cheaper then lowering your basement. i think lowering the basement is pretty expensive.
A former coworker just lowered her basement (and was feature on cityline wooooo) - it was a really long and expensive process, but definitely worth it for them as there were no other options to make it usable. I'll see if there are pics.
We're going to do a fence soon - I'm thinking of doing wood in the main yard area for privacy and aesthetics, but running chain link up the hill. Anyone done fence lately? What's the costs on this kind of thing? And how can I convince the landlord of the place next door to split it with us?
We're going to do a fence soon - I'm thinking of doing wood in the main yard area for privacy and aesthetics, but running chain link up the hill. Anyone done fence lately? What's the costs on this kind of thing? And how can I convince the landlord of the place next door to split it with us?
For your fence DIY!
The hardest part is digging the holes but you can hire guys to come in and dig the holes for you. You can make your own fence or just buy pre made panels.
Pricewise it's not an expensive job.
As for you neighbour if they don't play nice you could always have it added to their prop taxes if they make you pay for everything and then get reimbursed, obviously this is a last resort.
If you decide to DIY let me know if you have any questions, I've done fence, gates and my deck all DIY so if I can do it anyone can
The hardest part is digging the holes but you can hire guys to come in and dig the holes for you. You can make your own fence or just buy pre made panels.
Pricewise it's not an expensive job.
As for you neighbour if they don't play nice you could always have it added to their prop taxes if they make you pay for everything and then get reimbursed, obviously this is a last resort.
If you decide to DIY let me know if you have any questions, I've done fence, gates and my deck all DIY so if I can do it anyone can
jason klaps
TRIBE Member
Another option is Densarmor paperless drywall, you can buy it at Lowes. Mold feeds on paper and paperless uses an embedded fiberglass instead of paper.
Did half my basement in the blue drywall and the latest renos using the paperless. Check this thread in 20 years and I'll let you know which one worked better
PS. When doing the basement walls I suggest hanging the drywall 1 full inch off the ground/flooring to prevent wicking of moisture via the concrete or ceramic tiles. The baseboard covers the gap, so it doesn't really make any impact on the look.
basketballjones
TRIBE Member
my friend is on that site
good god i love reading this thread, lots of horrible info in here
basketballjones
TRIBE Member
no it doesnt feed on paper, it feeds on moistureAnother option is Densarmor paperless drywall, you can buy it at Lowes. Mold feeds on paper and paperless uses an embedded fiberglass instead of paper.
Did half my basement in the blue drywall and the latest renos using the paperless. Check this thread in 20 years and I'll let you know which one worked better
PS. When doing the basement walls I suggest hanging the drywall 1 full inch off the ground/flooring to prevent wicking of moisture via the concrete or ceramic tiles. The baseboard covers the gap, so it doesn't really make any impact on the look.
basketballjones
TRIBE Member
or you could rent an auger and do them yourself, but its much easier to get someone like mr posthole who does it for like 10 bucks a hole
before you start...ALWAYS call the town/city to see what is laying where in terms of underground pipes and such, dont want to hit a natural gas line or something
basketballjones
TRIBE Member
i can give you my buddies name and number if you like, he is the guy on the holmes show and can check your foundation and give you a plan and fix it if you wish
basketballjones
TRIBE Member
was there tar paper behind the drywall, against the foundation?>
basketballjones
TRIBE Member
you should hit up some marinas buddy, shit like that gets tossed all the timeCouple of nice teak pieces came up on CL:
and
Nice stuff!
jason klaps
TRIBE Member
almost right:
Household mold has three requirements to grow – moisture, organic material to digest, and a moderate temperature (usually between 40 and 100 degrees). "Organic material" simply means the things that were alive as some point - wood, paper, cotton, etc. The mold will continue to grow until it consumes all of the organic material present – that means the mold eventually can “eat” all of the wood in a building. It can also digest the cellulose (wood/paper) fibers in the wallpaper, wallboard, ceiling tiles, floors… Mold can eat almost the entire building if it is not stopped.
Read more at Suite101: Information on Mold: What Mold is, How it Spreads, and What it Needs to Grow Information on Mold: What Mold is, How it Spreads, and What it Needs to Grow
basketballjones
TRIBE Member
agreed, but take away moisture and it doesnt start
in the first place
Musical Rush
TRIBE Member
Make sure to do a proper vapor barrier too so there's no air movement. If there's any mold on the wood wash it off with bleach.
Vapor Barrier Installation Is The Key To A Tight, Energy-Efficient House
Vapor Barrier Installation Is The Key To A Tight, Energy-Efficient House
If it was McRae I had a guy come by and quote. He left and I never heard from him for weeks. Called him back and he faxed me some bullshit quote for 3 g's flat. I don't even think he remembered who I was TBH
I tried getting Bowen to come by and we just couldn't schedule a date, no biggie. I will be calling them back in a few weeks for a proper quote.
totally, we actually used a hand auger, my arms were very sore at the end of that day. for $10/hole I'd gladly pay the fee next time around
call before you dig: 1-800-400-2255
Welcome to ON1Call
its not always one call though... find out who they capture with their locates.
(sometimes you have to call gas separately or cable, etc)
Welcome to ON1Call
its not always one call though... find out who they capture with their locates.
(sometimes you have to call gas separately or cable, etc)